1. Introduction : seeing things as they are -- 2. "A garden of every kind of people" : Newar Buddhists in Hindu Nepal -- 3. Buddhist modernism and the revival of "pure Buddhism" -- 4. What makes a Theravada Buddhist? -- 5. Becoming "pure Buddhist" (pt. 1) : practices of personhood -- 6. Becoming "pure Buddhist" (pt. 2) : vipassana meditation and the Theravada care of the self -- 7. The best dharma for today : post-Protestant Buddhism in neoliberal Nepal -- 8. Conclusion : the Buddhist art of living, in Nepal and elsewhere