Title Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / Nazanin Hedayat Munroe

Published Amsterdam : Amsterdam University Press, [2023] ©2023

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Description 1 online resource (248 pages) : illustrations (chiefly color), portraits ; Series Visual and Material Culture, 1300-1700 ; v.41 Visual and material culture, 1300-1700 ; 41. Contents Cover -- Table of Contents -- Acknowledgments -- Note on Transliteration -- Introduction: Material Culture and Mysticism in the Persianate World -- Material Culture and Mysticism -- The Persianate World -- Part I -- 1. Silks, Signatures and Self-fashioning -- Khamsa Narrative Silks in Scholarship -- The Famous Naqshband: Unrivalled in the Art of Textile Design -- Craftsmen and Consumers -- Self-Fashioning in the Early Modern Persianate World -- 2. Dressed as King, Lover and Beloved: Khusrau and Shirin -- Lovers from Nizami's Khamsa -- The Romantic Tragedy of Nizami's 'Khusrau and Shirin' Khusrau and Shirin in Paintings and Safavid Silks -- The Gaze and the Body: States of Dress and Undress -- 3. Weaving Stories, Weaving Self: Layla and Majnun as Sufi Icons -- The Mystical Love Story of Nizami's 'Layla and Majnun' -- Layla and Majnun in Poetry, Paintings and Silk Designs -- The Khamsa of Amir Khusrau -- Text and Textile in Sufi Poetry -- Part II -- 4. The Divine Cloak of Majesty: Material Culture in Sufi Practice -- Garments as Gifts of Blessing, Piety and Power -- Chivalry, Spirituality and Materiality in Sufism -- Khirqa: The Cloak of Spiritual Poverty Khamsa Silk as Khirqa? Figural Silks in Islamic Literary Sources -- Enrobed: Khil'at in the Early Modern Age -- 5. Mughal Dress and Spirituality: The Age of Sufi Kings -- Silk, Sufism and Self-Image at the Mughal Court -- Figural Silks from Mughal Manufactories -- Jahangir as King and Lover -- Ghiyath's Legacy at the Mughal Court -- 6. Safavid Figural Silks in Diplomacy: Rare Textiles of Novel Design -- Silk as Commodity in Safavid Iran -- Figural Silk as Safavid Identity: Sherley and His Rivals -- Figural Silk as Diplomatic Gifts -- Safavid and Mughal Gift Giving in Historical Accounts Figural Silks at the Mughal Court -- Conclusion -- Reattribution of the Khamsa Silks Based on Paintings and Poetry -- Textile Designs and Designers -- Sufi Kings in Mughal India and Safavid Iran -- Khusrau and Shirin: Love and Kingship -- Layla and Majnun: Separation and Union -- Deviations from the Khamsa Characters -- Concluding Thoughts -- Appendix A: List of Khamsa Silks -- Appendix B: Summary of 'Shirin and Khusrau' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Appendix C: Summary of 'Majnun and Layla' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Glossary of Textile Terms -- Glossary of Persian and Arabic Terms List of Historic Figures -- Index -- List of Illustrations -- Figure 1.1: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk with metal foil -- double cloth. L: 7 7/8 in. (20 cm), W: 5 3/8 in. (13.65 cm). The Textile Museum (1969.36.1). Acquired from the Cooper Hewitt Muse -- Figure 1.2: Textile fragment depicting Khusrau seeing Shirin bathing. Attributed to mid-sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk -- cut velvet. L: 7 1/2 in. (19.1 cm), W: 5 7/8 in. (14.9 cm). Cleveland Museum of Art (1944.499.b). Purchase from the J.H. Wade Fu Summary This text examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of 'Layla and Majnun' and 'Khusrau and Shirin' that appear on early modern silks Notes Figure 1.3: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun, with the signature 'Work of Ghiyath' (detail), mirrored to show proper direction of the script. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk, with gilded parchment wrapped around silk core Bibliography Includes bibliographical references and index Notes Description based on online resource; title from digital title page (viewed on December 22, 2022) Subject Niẓāmī Ganjavī, 1140 or 1141-1202 or 1203. Khamsah. SUBJECT Khamsah (Niẓāmī Ganjavī) fast Subject Textile crafts -- Iran -- History -- 16th century Textile crafts -- Iran -- History -- 17th century Silk pictures -- Iran -- History Women sufis -- Clothing Clothing and dress -- Religious aspects -- Islam. Clothing and dress -- Iran -- History Clothing and dress Clothing and dress -- Religious aspects -- Islam Silk pictures Textile crafts Iran Genre/Form History Form Electronic book ISBN 9789048551149 9048551145

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