1. Physical and Cultural Shocks -- 2. The City as Object -- 3. The Library and Its Surroundings -- 4. Unknown Gods and Life-Styles -- 5. Further Pursuit of Informants: The Metalworkers -- 6. A Shift in Technique -- 7. Woodworkers -- 8. Weavers -- 9. Categories and Units of Observation -- 10. Among the Police and Administration -- 11. The Researcher at Home -- 12. Death -- 13. My Research Assistant -- 14. Inside a Police Station -- 15. Abdul Jabbar -- 16. Questions of Gender -- 17. Rapacity and Recovery -- 18. Progress and Its Limitations -- 19. The Pleasures of the Body -- 20. Holi Saturnalia -- 21. A Break from Banaras -- 22. Ethnography in the Archives -- 23. Patterns of Selectivity -- 24. Departure
