| Description |
142 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm |
|
regular print |
| Contents |
Machine derived contents note: 1 The Paradox of Impossible Knowledge 9 -- 2 Large-Scale Weather Patterns 15 -- 3 The Formation of a Depression 24 -- 4 The Growth of Waves on the Ocean 32 -- 5 Propagation of Free-Travelling Swell 39 -- 6 Refraction 50 -- 7 Wave-Breaking 60 -- 8 How Waves Move Sediment 68 -- 9 Surfing in the Storm 77 -- 10 Local Winds on the Coast 86 -- 11 The Temperature of the Water 95 -- 12 The Tides 101 -- 13 World Wave Climate 112 -- 14 Forecasting the Waves 121 |
| Summary |
"In its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point to view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves."--BOOK JACKET |
| Notes |
Previous ed.: 2002 |
| Bibliography |
Includes bibliographical references and index |
| Subject |
Surfing.
|
|
Ocean waves.
|
|
Wave-motion, Theory of.
|
| Author |
Russell, Paul Eric
|
|
Grigg, Richard W.
|
| LC no. |
2005472116 |
| ISBN |
0906720362 paperback |
|
9780906720363 paperback |
|
0824828917 |
|
